Is there anything more fun than walking and eating one’s way through a city that is not your own? Dublin is so compact and cozy that it’s possible to do this for days on end – I know, I’ve done it for a month. Here are a few spots I’ve enjoyed along the way.
Grogan’s on S. William Street – the quintessential old fashioned pub – get the famous freshly made ham and cheese toastie – with tomato – and mustard. Add a hot Irish coffee or a cold Bulmer’s cider.
La Maison – just next door – get the lobster bisque. Murphy’s on Wicklow has the best ice cream I’ve ever had. Get the carmelized brown bread ice cream, or the Dingle sea salt, or the caramel honeycomb, or the raspberry sorbet – made with distilled rainwater – (captured during a sun shower, no doubt!) A very nice person is always standing out front with samples.
Lemon – the trendy one, with the best people watching is on S. William – stop for a strawberry crepe filled with brown sugar melted in butter, with clotted cream on top, or the power crepe with spinach, mature cheddar (there is no tolerance for silly, irresponsible cheese in this country) , garlic mushrooms, fresh chives, and creme fraiche. Add on the best cappuccino in town.
P. Macs on Stephen Street – go for a pint of Erdingers – there’s candle wax on the tables. Super Miss Sue on Drury – go for fancy fish and chips and save Leo Burdoch’s on Werburgh by Christchurch for the take away variety – the best late night snack. Ask for extra tartar sauce. The grease will saturate the paper, but it’s worth it. The Brazen Head – the oldest pub in town – get the steaming hot seafood chowder.
The lobby of the Brooks Hotel – go for the pureed mushroom soup with brown bread on the side and slather it with sweet butter. Wash it down with a White Hag and sit by the piano. The Queen of Tarts on Cows Lane -get the fritatta with roasted butternut squash, beetroot, red onion, baby potatoes, and goats cheese. Fallon and Byrne on Exchequer – the prettiest grocery store ever – go exotic and get dragon fruit, baby pineapple, and lychees. Cornucopia – back to Wicklow – indulge in the best salads – one with chickpea, roasted aubergine, feta and rocket with sundried tomato and chili, or a potato, leek, and courgette gratin baked in roasted pepper and goats cheese cream with a pumpkin seed and basil crust. (I’m not kidding around. I really mean it.) Le Petit Parisien is on the same street – go for the best Croque Monsieur or Madame and a warm gooey almond croissant.
And you thought I was going to say Irish stew.